Wexford, Ireland: An eccentric, convivial, opera-loving seaport
Americans all go to the west coast of Ireland, leaving Wexford - two hours south of Dublin - well alone.
Perhaps they sense that if your family hasnt been based there for at least two centuries, youre what locals call a blow-in. The place is deeply eccentric.
I have never seen a town with so many pharmacies, gentlemans barbers and restaurants. And Wexford has an unlikely, all-consuming passion: the opera.
Water music: The harbour at Wexford, which can be found just two hours south of Dublin
The annual Wexford Festival Opera began 60 years ago, springing out of the towns choral tradition, and is held every October. The thing is, you would never know theres an opera house here at all.
Walk down the narrow High Street in the old town, past a row of unremarkable terrace houses, and you might notice that a pair of front doors doesnt open.
Thats because they are a fake front for the theatres offices and dressing rooms. They knocked down the original theatre and the entire street, then rebuilt both and put in the new auditorium - a 33 million euro landmark resulting in the first purpose-built opera house in the republic.
Modern: The Wexford Opera House cost 33 million euro and is the first to be purpose-built in the republic
Opened in 2008, this modernist gem is decked out in black walnut with a 769-seat horseshoe auditorium with leather seats, a lovely studio theatre and five bars.
The Wexford Festival was started by local doctor Tom Walsh, who announced: 'I will give th! em not w hat they want - but what I think they might like'and staged shows such as the then-neglected L'Elisir d'Amour, by Donizetti.
True to form, this year they are doing Gianni Di Parigi, Donizetti's least-known work; a lost Polish opera, Maria; and La Cour DeClimne, by Ambroise Thomas, which was a smash hit in its day but has now fallen by the wayside.
Eclectic: The Wexford Festival was started by local doctor Tom Walsh and has a reputation for varied operas
If they put on anything obvious, such as Carmen or The Magic Flute, there would be a local riot.
The festival is supported by 300 local volunteers, so the chances are a Wexford fisherman or dentist will show you to your seat.
On song: A scene from La Cour De Climne
Wexford itself is a wonderful weekend destination. It took my wife an entire morning to visit its many shoe shops, after which we met up in Greenacres Bistro for a superb fish lunch.
I spent a few hours with an excellent town guide, Monica, who remembers as a girl seeing John F. Kennedy's visit.
Unlike President Obama's recent Irish tour, JFK had little security. TheKennedys might have left Ireland from New Ross, a river port half an hour away.
Here, there is a superb floating museum - the Dunbrody emigrant ship, a beautiful replica of the 458-tonne, 176ft-long, three-masted barque that carried around 200 passengers on a voyage that took them six to eight weeks.
A ticket, dated 1849, is issued to each visitor. The below-decks tour, which uses actors as convincingly squalidpeasants, is both moving and grimly fascinating.
We drove from there tothe Hook Peninsula, home of Ireland's most amazing lighthouse. Builtin the 13th century, it's also the world's o! ldest st ill in operation.
With its vaulted tiers and vast masonry, it feels like a vertical tubular monastery.
In 1996, automation arrived and the keeper climbed the stairs for the last time.
Quite a thought, as you wander around the gallery outside, absorbing the unforgettable 360-degree view. Back in Wexford City, the talk isn't of boats or catches.
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The town is getting dolled up for the festival, starting next month. Evening dress is worn. On the walk down the high street, gents in black tie should beware of the seagulls.
Travel Facts
Wexford Festival Opera runs October 21 to November 5, seat prices 30 to 113, 00353 53 9122 144, www.wexfordopera.com.
Ryanair flies from Stansted to Dublin, two hours from Wexford by car, from 30 return, www.ryanair.com.
Ferrycarrig Hotel, near Wexford, has double rooms from 86, 00353 53 9120 999, www.ferrycarrighotel.ie.
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