Norfolk family holidays: Why Cromer is the perfect traditional holiday spot
When in Rome, do as the Romans do'. Well, we were in Cromer which, as we soon learned, is the crabbing capital of England.
Having explored the best of north Norfolks natural assets - including Holkhams glorious sandy beaches, Brancaster Straits with its many creeks and waterways, and the 250 acres of woodland and open heathland at Kelling Heath - the family was ready for some traditional fun.
Complete with a helterskelter on the promenade, a theatre on the pier, and fish and chips aplenty, Cromer is definitely 'old-school'.
Bargain bucket: The boys show off one of the prized members of their catch
Traditional seaside fun: A view of Cromer Pier, taking in the fine sandy beach which stretches for miles
The experts: The Wheelers picked up crabbing advice from a team of local specialists
Well-earned reward: A pint in the Red Lion in Cromer followed the crabbing success
We were staying close by at The Cliftonville Hotel, a family-run listed Edwardian building, with sizeable reception area, stained-glass windows, grand staircase and beautiful wooden bar.
Ourroom, which was huge and homely, if a little dated in a great-aunt typeof way, had a corner bath which was a reve! lation t o the children, and even a window seat which provided fantastic views of the sea and the pier - where all the action seemed to be.
Crabshad already been established as something of a theme after our visit toCookies Crab Shop in Salthouse - a real discovery half an hour west of Cromer where dressed crab is the highlight of the menu.
Therestaurant, which sells locally caught seafood supplied by a small number of fishermen, is one of comedian Stephen Frys favourite places to eat (he was born and bred in the region).
Decliningthe opportunity to brave whatever weather Norfolks north coast could throw at us, we opted for a table in the shed, although booking in advance is vital for such a prized place.
It'sa BYO - so we brought our own white plonk, and the bill for four seafood platters (one each of crab, prawn, lobster and salmon, plus starters of fish pate and seaweed) came in at a reasonable 40.
Crabs are a feature of every restaurant menu in the town, including our hotels Boltons Bistro - andvisitors are heartily encouraged by the locals to catch themselves a live one from the pier.
The children soon spied the necessary paraphernalia - buckets, nets, lines, bait - and persuaded us to give it a try.
Withsome help from a shopkeeper, we bought provisions, including a pack of eels for bait, and cannily found ourselves a spot behind the most successful crabbers, two lads with their father and uncle.
Despitetheir help (note: take a pair of scissors) our nets remained puzzlinglyempty and as black clouds headed our way and rain drops began to gentlyfall, there was a tinge of disappointment in the air.
But then the crabbers - who had spent every day of their two-week holiday dangling over the pier - saw where we going wrong.
Running free: The Wheeler boys explore the heathland behind their mobile home
Making tracks: Father and son try a spot of cycling on Kelling Heath
Outdoor fun: The Wheeler gang test their balance on the adventure playground at Kelling Heath
Firstly we had the wrong net. We had opted for mid-size, but when it comes to crabbing, bigger is better.
Next we had the wrong bait. The crabber lent us some squid and ten minutes later, we were hauling up our first crab. Joy for the boys.
Charlieand Harry had been soaking up information from the crabbers around us and had quickly become little walking encyclopedias on the subject.
They had learned how to tell the sexes apart, and when we landed an edible they visibly swelled with pride.
Withvicious pincers the edible had to be dealt with carefully and - with its habit of eating its cousins - had to be kept separate from the run-of-the-mill sea crabs we were fast accruing.
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Hotchocolates kept us all going - but with a few more degrees of warmth, it would definitely have been a great spot for a beer in the bar on the pier.
After several hours of innocent fun, we walked down to the shoreline with our bucket of crabs, happily showing off our haul to anyone with a passing interest. And back into the sea they went.
Wetook the steep steps up to the Red Lion, a splendid pub with sea views,which also happened to be hosting a beer festival, and indulged in celebratory ales and lemonades.
Crab heaven: Cookie's Crab Shop serves the very best locally caught seafood
Birthplace of a hero: Horatio Nelson was born in the exceedingly pleasant village of Burnham Thorpe, where his father was rector
Norfolk is home to some great pubs, and my husband decided that the pick of the ales was Woodfordes, with the award-winning Wherry nominated as the best of the range.
Thebrewery, near Woodbastwick, has a visitor centre for those who want to stock up. And, if your husband insists on sampling the merchandise in advance, there is the on-site Fur and Feather Inn.
Anothergreat pub we stumbled across on our travels was the Kings Head in Holt, which is at one end of the Poppy Line steam railway, with Sheringham at the other.
Holtis about 20 minutes walk from the railway station, or a couple of minutes on the bus, and is a gorgeous little market town, fabulous for window shopping, packed with little boutiques, gift shops and cosy eateries.
The Kings Head offered refuge as the heavens opened, and to our delight landlord Ada! m Chapma n is totally passionate about food.
He and his team buy in whole pigs and lambs from local farmers to create dishes from scratch, using whatever is in season.
Pushedfor time, we went for fish finger sarnies, which were flaky and succulent, with home-made breadcrumbs, and came with a side salad and wedges. Thumbs-up all round.
For sunny days - and there are some - and also a bit of British history, The Lord Nelson, at Burnham Thorpe, is worth a visit.
Ourhero Horatio was born and raised here as the son of a rector, and drank in what was called The Plough when built in 1637, buying rounds for villagers before going off to war.
The pub was renamed in honour of him after his victory over the French at the Battle of the Nile in 1798, and thelarge beer garden where burgers are barbecued is a very pleasant place to toast his victory over the French at Trafalgar in 1805.
Withmeandering lanes, a village green and the church - which doubles up as amuseum honouring their most famous resident - Burnham Thorpe really should be on every itinerary.
But withall that eating and drinking, a little exercise is no bad idea, and Kelling Heath holiday park, where we spent five wonderful days, fits the bill perfectly.
The site, which is a less commercial, more organic version of CenterParcs,sits close to the coast at Weybourne, in between Holt and Sheringham.
Boys' own adventure: Charlie and Harry enjoy the Poppy Line steam railway, which runs from Holt to Sheringham - before stopping off to buy ice creams. Chocolate, of course
Ourcomfortably sized, two-bedroom mobile home backed onto beauti! ful purp leheath, which served as a perfect playground for two boys aged eight andfive.
While we kept busy making the most of the on-site facilities - including the numerous cycling and walking trails, the swimming pools and the wooden adventure playground - it was the outdoor space and freedom the children loved the most.
Followingdinner every night, they would beg to go and play on the heath.The result being that the telly wasnt switched on for the entire week.
We set rough 'don't go too far' boundaries, and they were generally within shouting distance. With strict instructions to come back at dusk they would return covered in grime, brandishing long sticks, and bursting with tales of high adventure.
For city dwellers it is a fantastic opportunity to allow children a chance to explore the countryside by themselves in a safe environment (within reason, of course).
Gone to market: The pretty market town of Holt is full of little boutiques and eateries
Accommodation comes in the form of mobile homes and wooden lodges, which blend into the environment, and are set a discreet distance from each other. Theres also a separate site for touring caravans and campers.
Make sure you hit the fully kitted-out cycle-hire shed early. And for other activities there are table tennis tables, a playground, a pub/restaurant offering entertainment every night, and a cafe serving great milkshakes.
Its also a haven for wildlife. Fans include David Bellamy and Bill Oddie who often make trips to the park to open new projects, trails or schemes. There is plenty to inspire budding naturalists, including pond-dipping and walks that offer the chance to find bats, enjoy the dawn chorus or discover summer birds and butterflies. Shelter building, messy bird cake making ! and wild life photography are among other favourites.
Currently, Kelling Heath is supporting red squirrels with a captive breeding programme, and the Silver-studded Blue butterfly, a rare insect which has declined throughout Britain due to the loss of the heathland on which it depends.
Silver-studded Blues became extinct on Kelling Heath in the 1970s. In 2001 several adult butterflies were brought from another site in Norfolk, and since then they have been increasing in number and have spread into new areas.
The park is also helping to boost the numbers of bumblebees.
But its biggest asset is space. When we were discussing holiday options this summer Charlie and Harry piped up: Can we go back to the place with the really big garden?.
After a few moments, I realised they were talking about Kelling Heath. It just goes to show that kids are very easy to please - a bit of space, freedom and a stick is all they need.
Travel Facts
Accommodation at Kelling Heath is available in a lodge or luxury home - for three, four, seven or 14 days. Prices start at 269 for a two-bed, three-night stay:01263 588181, www.kellingheath.co.uk
The Wheelers also stayed at the Clifton Village Hotel (01263 512543, www.cliftonvillehotel.co.uk), where prices start from 67 per person for standard bed and breakfast (summer tariff, midweek rate).
Other pubs and inns they visited included:
Kings Head Holt www.kingsheadholt.org.uk
Red Lion Hotel in Cromer www.redlion-cromer.co.uk
The Fur and Feather Inn www.thefurandfeatherinn.c! o.uk/
Wood Fordes www.woodfordes.co.uk
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