France holidays: Wine, castles and tapestries in alluring Anjou
Pretty persuasion: The River Maine winds through Angers in idyllic fashionAnd one of the first in a string of surprises in this delightful French town. In the heart of Anjou, astride the river Maine, the city is filled with ancient buildings, superb gardens, restaurants and fine local wines. Within minutes of arriving, I felt myself being gently woven into a moving tapestry of French life.
The Plantagenets are from here. England's Henry II, who had Thomas Becket murdered, was son of Geoffrey Plantagenet, Count of Anjou. By marriage, political cunning and military strength, the family ruled a sizeable chunk of Europe until the Hundred Years War.
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Anjou's rich horticultural heritage has encouraged the Maine-et-Loire government to create a green theme park, Terra Botanica, costing 82 million, and built on a 17-hectare site. Four themed areas radiate from a central point, covering historic plant hunters, crops, botany and Anjou's local heritage.
The most arresting exhibits were high-tech. In one, film projects onto a curtain of falling water, showing Alexander von Humboldt and his companion, botanist Aim B! onpland, escaping from pirates on their 1804 voyage to South America with ghostly ships, swirling waters and full surround sound.
Sturdy: The fortress at Angers still exudes medieval majestyThe 4D journey of a raindrop was even more cinema verite.
Families were enjoying their day out and a contented Gallic buzz emanated from the restaurant. An eco-conscious menu has been devised for Terra Botanica by Angers chef Pascal Favre d'Anne. I declined lunch, knowing I was to enjoy dinner at his Michelin-starred riverside restaurant, Le Favre d'Anne, that evening.
We dined in the garden, gazing over the river at the chateau, cathedral and old city as it turned slowly gold in the westering sun. We began with oh-so-light mousses of courgette and melon, accompanied by Savennieres, a local appellation made with Chenin grapes.
Pigeon breast with rhubarb followed, then ripe Reblochon cheese. Subtle floodlighting kept the buildings across the river in view.
The chateau is home to the Apocalypse Tapestry, dating from 1373. Of the original 140 metres, 104 remain and have been restored. The remnant is much larger than the Bayeux tapestry, and roughly four metres high. The Apocalypse theme shows the nightmare events described in the Book of Revelations.
Give yourself time to appreciate the detail, and the febrile medieval imagination.
From the chateau you can walk to the 12th century Cathedral of Saint Maurice. The cobbled streets are beautifully preserved, with gargoyles here, an ensconced saint there.
Several of Angers' ancient buildings have been put to modern use, but with sympathy to their past. Loveliest of all is Saint John's Hospital, built in the 12th century by Henry II as penance for Becket's murder. Here, in an elegantly columned and vaulted hall, hangs Angers' other great wool tapestry - by Jean Lurcat, depicting a modern, Cold War apocalypse.
Future visions: The Apocalypse Tapestry in Angers shows the end of the world through medieval eyesThis is a university town with a relaxed but lively ambience. The streets, the river and the delightfully pastoral landscape outside the city make Anjou a jewel in the Plantagenet crown.
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