France city breaks: Six things you must do in Le Mans

Add to My Stories Less than an hour west of Paris, Le Mans is an easy short-break trip by train from London St Pancras and a hot tip for a Where do we go next? destination in France.Gareth Huw Davies discovers one of Frances too-long-overlooked old cities. His must-do list includes a mighty chunk of Roman wall, a thrilling night-time light show, the tomb of Richard the Lionhearts queen and a very special tea room. And could we mention a certain 24-hour car race?

Medieval magic: Le Mans sits in picturesque fashion on the banks of the River Sarthe

1. Wall of Fame

Le Mans Roman Wall is a sensation. Among city fortifications of the time, only Romes and
Istanbuls are bigger. About 1,300 yards long, studded with 12 towers, it wraps around the immaculately preserved and restored Plantagenet Old City. This is a maze of narrow cobbled ways, overhung with 14th Century timber-framed houses in medieval hues of blue, lavender, green and red. Its a short stroll to the sleek Museum of Archaeology and the Muse de Tess, a fine art museum with a 3D facsimile of an Egyptian tomb. Then on to the modern city centre, where trams gently swish down wide boulevards, planted with bowling green lawns to absorb the sound.

2. Heaven on Earth

The formidable 1,000-year-old St Julians Cathedral is one of Frances elite religious monuments. Englands King Henry II was baptised here, while Berengaria, the abandoned wife of Richard the Lionheart, is buried here. Key features include the mid-13th Century stained-glass windows and a recently restored 14th century fresco depicting 47 angelic musicians.

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3.Time for tea

If you thought the British held the monopoly of devotion to the humble tea leaf, consider the qu! ite craz y mission of designer Jean-Pierre Guilbert and his wife Elisabeth. They resolved that Pilier-aux-Lumires, a previously tumbledown 14th Century timber-framed building, should not be allowed to crumble into dust. They spent a pot of money, restored it and turned it into a most welcoming tea room (Place du Hallai, www.pilierauxlumieres.fr). For dinner I recommend Fou du Roy, another of the host of small and not too expensive family restaurants France does so well (Impasse Sainte Catherine, 00 33 243 28 45 03.)

On your marks: Drivers race for the vehicles at the start of the city's famous 24-hour race in 1958

4. Round-the-clock appeal

The Le Mans 24 Hours endurance race for cars takes place in July but it is too good a brand name to use only once a year. So if you miss it there are more marathons on wheels to catch, although they dont use the longer nine-mile course which takes in adjoining local roads. Theres a 24-hour classic cars race, a 24-hour truck contest, and even a 24-hour event for cyclists. There are guided tours and the chance to drive the inner circuits. Its worth the visit for the museum alone full of fabulous old cars, motor memorabilia and photos of stirring races (www.lemans.org).

5.City lights

The La Nuit des Chimres light show, held on summer nights, is a sophisticated display, projected on to historic buildings. Its held at eight locations and at a brisk pace you can catch them all, but its best to spread it over several nights. Roman gymnasts and a battle with a dragon are projected rolling across the bricks of the ancient walls. The ghost of Berengaria appears at the Plantagenet Museum. Shes also in the 70-minute-long Banquet of the Plantagenets, starring Queen Eleanor, Henry II and Richard the Lionheart, in the Academy Garden. Best of all is the titanic battle between Heaven and Hell played out over the east end of the cathedral. www.nuitdeschimeres.com6. A-st ar B&BWhat would the landlady of my student digs have made of La Demeure de Laclais, a restored 16th century three-storey town house in the Old Town? Its a B&B, but not as we know it. It would be an insult to this precious historic area to put up a new hotel, but discreet conversions like this are just the thing a mix of contemporary and antique furniture, authentic materials and soft colours. I stayed in the top-floor Berengere Suite, with its private balcony and views out into the Sarthe countryside. 00 33 243 81 91 78, www.lademeuredelaclais.frThe writer travelled by train. More details: www.raileurope.co.uk and www.lemanstourisme.com.