Hotel review: The Devonshire Arms, Somerset
Rating:
There's a note pinned to the back door of The Devonshire Arms in pretty Long Sutton, Somerset. It says that the inn is closed between 3pm and 6pm, but if you want access during that time you should ring a certain number.
I make that call and within 30 seconds a young man in a tatty T-shirt appears. Magic.But it turns out that he, too, is waiting for the appointed hour - so he can begin his shift in the kitchen.
He says the restaurant did more than 70 covers on Saturday night. I tell him it could be just me this evening, a Monday. He thinks thats unlikely.
The Devonshire Arms: A village charmer
What a charming spot this is. The solid building looks out over the village green, with the church at the far corner. And its some church, with a mightily tall west tower and possibly the largest wooden door Ive ever seen. Apparently, the tower (dated 1440) was built before the rest of the church.
There must be weddings here almost every Saturday in summer. The boss arrives and lets cookie and me in.
Then he hands over keys to a room not in the main part of the house. Theres no bath, so I ask to switch - and am glad I do. My new room has character, in a mish-mash sort of way. Theres! a Japan ese-style bed, sisal flooring, a wicker armchair and a thin, glass table. And thats about it.
The bathroom is almost as big as the bedroom and has a funny little cast-iron mauve, freestanding tub. Its so slim that dear, pre-diet Dawn French would have trouble squeezing in - and might never get out.
The chefs assistant is right. A goodish local crowd turns up for some impressive grub. Five women are huddled around the unlit fire drinking white wine and the atmosphere is blissfully relaxed.
You could bring a pack of beagles here and traipse through in muddy boots and no one would mind. In fact, youre more likely to attract stares if you dont come in with muddy boots.
Downstairs is one, huge room. Wood floors at either end, flagstones and crumpled leather sofas in the middle. Theres also an upright piano, which clearly is not just ornamental. In the dining area, two giant blackboards explain how all the ingredients come from within 30 miles.
Beef and lamb is sourced from Sharpham Park, the organic farm run
by Mulberrys founder Roger Saul. I opt for scallops followed by pork belly, and just manage to resist the spread of local cheeses for afters.
But theres no holding back on the full English in the morning - a princely feast let down only by flaccid bacon. Theres lots to explore in this uncluttered part of the world: the Fleet Air Arm Museum, Wookey Hole, Longleat. The Devonshire Arms is a good place to start.
Travel facts
The Devonshire Arms,
Long Sutton,
Langport,
Somerset TA10 9LP
www.thedevonshirearms.com
Doubles from 85 B&B
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