Greek islands: Paros is perfect for family holidays

Add to My Stories My Bombalurina-style Itsy Bitsy Teeny Weeny Yellow Polka Dot Bikini was packed, my Sony Walkman earphones plugged in, and coconut oil liberally lathered.
That was 1990, I was aged 22 and backpacking around the Cycladic Islands in sunny Greece.
Twenty years later, Im in the exact same spot Paroikia, the ferry terminal on Paros wondering where all the people offering rooms for 1,000 drachmae (around 3) a night have gone.
Perhaps they all own boutique hotels, such as the one Im bound for.

Beach break: There are plenty of coves and stretches of sand to choose from in ParosParos is the third largest of a whole series of islands that form the Cyclades, a cluster of craggy rocks (many still uninhabited) that poke their heads up from the Aegean Sea some 100 miles from Athens.
Its at the centre of the archipelago and a travel hub. You fly to Athens and then its a three-hour ferry ride.

Kids in tow: Kate enjoys the island's quieter side with her childrenThe string of bars to the right of the port, where I first discovered the delights of the Fuzzy Duck (banana liqueur, Malibu and vodka), are still on eternal Happy Hour. The iconic white windmill stands firm and the cheese pie shop is still doing brisk business.
Paroikia continues to be the place to party, but, in quieter family mode (with my husband and three children aged ten, nine and three), I head for Naousa, on the north coast.

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Its the chicest spot to stay on Paros. Shops that once sold baklava now flog Gucci handbags and well-heeled Athenians totter in Louboutins, not espadrilles.
It remains a traditional fishing! town, t hough. Squid is still hung out to dry on wooden planks in the harbour.The Lilly Residence, where we arestaying, is cooly elegant with canopied beds and a Jacuzzi. We adaptour lovely suite to sleep all five of us and lounge extravagantly onthe huge balcony terrace.Forthe first few gusty days we stick to sheltered bays on the north coast.We hire a car and take the coastal road to the beach at Kolimbithries.But the coves famous granite rock formations are peppered with more itsy bikinis and tight Speedos, so we move on swiftly.

Further round the coast is Agios Ioannis beach, named after the Monastery perched on the rocks to the right of the bay. The sublimely warm water stays shallow for more than 100 yards, making it perfect for children learning to swim.
But with the wind becoming a gathering gale, we explore further afield, and board a ferry for a brief ten-minute traverse to the tiny island of Anti-Paros.

Pretty escape: Chic shops nudge alongside traditional tavernasThe star attraction (apart from Tom Hankss holiday home) are the caves, with impressive stalactites and stalagmites.
Precipitous steps take you to a chilly 240 ft underground, where Lord Byron indulged in a little early graffiti.
Paross principal beach is Chryssi Akti, also known as Golden Beach, a half-mile stretch of sand on the east coast. Its near Lefkes, an enchanting hamlet of medieval houses, blue-domed churches and a shady square where we picnic greedily.
Evenings find us ensconced in Naousa. There are a string of upmarket seafood restaurants on the harbour, but back streets are full of family run tavernas.
Life in Paros goes on much as it did 20 years ago. Yes, it has had a glitzy facelift, but in the kitchen of every stylish restaurant grandma is still making the dolmas.

Travel Facts

EasyJet flies to Athens from 69 return, 0905 821 0905, easyjet.com.
One way on a Blue Star Ferry f! rom Pira eus, Athens to Paros is around 20.
A studio room in low season at Lilly Residence starts at 50.
Tel: 00 302284051377, www.lillyresidence.gr.