Isle of Man breaks: Kayaking with seals, catching pollock and the Manx attractions
A committed slow-lane driver, I am the least likely person to be channelling Jeremy Clarkson.
But as I follow the snaking route around the Isle of Mans Snaefell mountain in my hired Ford Fiesta, Im having an uncharacteristic Top Gear moment.
Scalextric-style bends combine with seductive stretches of smooth tarmac on its 2,000ft slopes and wisps of chilly cloud scud beside me. I cautiously push the speedometer to 60mph. Finally, I seem to have discovered the thrill of the open road.
Dream driving is what the Isle of Man is famous for. Its annual TT and Grand Prix races draw petrol heads from all over the world and fanatics visit year-round to try the circuit, which includes the mountain pass.
Island charm: The Isle of Man offers dramatic coastlines and rolling hills as well as distinctly English towns and villages
As a Crown dependency, the island makes its own laws and has chosen to have no national speed limit. Its no wonder Clarkson has a second home here a luxury lighthouse on the remote Langness Peninsula.
But while I am pleasantly surprised to connect with my driving mojo, my most spectacular experience on this speck in the ocean involves getting out on the water.
In the middle of the Irish Sea, 83 miles from Liverpool and 90 miles from Belfast, wildlife teems around the islands shores. Seals, dolphins and porpoises flash their sleek backs regularly and enormous plankton-eating, basking sharks draw international crowds when they feed here in summer.
The prize: Lau! ra celeb rates catching her 4lb pollock
This sunny Monday morning, I am out for a spot of fishing with Bob Taylor on his beloved boat, Gemini. Bob remembers the glory days in the Sixties, when he used to visit the island as a teenager. Back then, it was a leading bucket-and-spade destination, before the crowds were lured away by affordable package holidays with guaranteed sun.
Nature and outdoor adventure is the key to its rejuvenation as a tourist spot, says Bob, who now runs wildlife-spotting and fishing trips from Port St Mary with his good friend Dave the two are old school-mates from Manchester and have retired to the island.
We scoot past the slate stacks of the jutting south coast and round the tip, known as The Sound. The views offer up something to delight everyone, velvet green hills lead down to tumbling rocks and surf.
Anchoring off the Calf of Man - a tiny islet near the tip, which is a bird sanctuary and home to a 240-strong seal colony - I prepare for my first ever fishing foray.
Dave patiently shows me how to lower my line into the water then slowly wind it back in. Im elated to land a 4lb pollock, albeit after a struggle.
She almost went overboard with that one! Dave howls to Bob.
We celebrate my success on deck with tea and Jamaica cake.
While fishing certainly provides a high I've not experienced before, my inner adrenaline junkie is keen to try some of the other sports on offer, which is how I find myself signing up to a sea kayak trip with champion Manx paddler Kierron Tastagh, who runs Adventurous Experiences.
I gingerly step into my far-too-unsteady kayak and we take to the choppy waters from Port Erin.
As the sea heaves and drops we edge around the coastal swells. Cormorants and shags gather on narrow ledges and a seal pops up its head briefly.
Caves and arches bore through the headlands and in the spirit of adventure, we point our nose into one to see what's inside,! but are soon forced back by the rush of a wave - my first dousing, but certainly not my last.
Taking to sea: Seeking an adrenaline rush, Laura tries her hand at kayaking
The sea is big today and for a novice kayaker its a bumpy ride. But exploring coastal nooks like this is liberating. Kierron tells me lots of his regular students are office workers desperate for an escape from their desks and a slice of freedom on the island. I certainly feel closer to Mother Nature, if slightly at her mercy.
Back in the bay, we join other gently bobbing kayakers waiting to catch a wave to shore. Suddenly, Kierron is shouting: Right, now, quick!
We paddle furiously in our double kayak and are whooshed along like surfers. I love it, but in my excitement lean the wrong way and immediately capsize the boat. Kierron is a pro and thankfully we are up in seconds. This is definitely harder than catching pollock.
On dry land, another cup of tea and a crab roll at nearby Robertos caf is the only way to go, then a long warm bath in my comfortable sea-view room at the Regency Hotel in the capital, Douglas.
Even if youre not a fan of the water, you can still reap its benefits. Manx Kippers and plump queenie scallopsfast become my favourite local specialities theyre both included on the impressive seafood platter at The Creek Inn, the relaxing spot whichoverlooks the harbour at Peel.
Remote: Petrol head Jeremy Clarkson has a house on the Langness Peninsula
The annual Isle of Man Food and Drink Festival is in full-swing when I visit and celebrity chef James Martin is giving cookery demos to the crowds. A regular visitor and fan of Manx produce, he shares with me his tip for eating on the island fresh crab with a squeeze! of lime , straight from Paddys fishmonger in Port St Mary.
I leave the festival with an indulgent haul of vintage cheddar cheese, lemon curd and sticky cinder toffee.
Manx residents refer to the mainland as Across and the Isle of Man does feel like a cosy outpost, with its own way of doing things.
Once a centre for Wicca witchcraft, theres something other-worldly about it and stories of spooks abound. There are ghost-hunting tours inside medieval Castle Rushen at Castletown.
And on passing through the village of Santon, locals advise you salute the fairies on Fairy Bridge to avoid bad luck. The surrounding trees are pinned with wishes and messages for the sprites.
Eking out the final hour of my stay, I drive back to The Sound to try out its panoramic caf. With a slice of Victoria sponge cake in hand, I find a spot on the grassy headland and watch seals cutting through the water below.
One has opted out of the evening swim and basks unmoving on a sunny rock, his whiskered face creased into what seems like a serene smile. He looks like he's thinking 'this is the life'.
I couldnt agree more.
Travel Facts
Aer Arann flies to the Isle of Man from London City and Dublin. Return flights from London start from 169.23 and from Dublin start from 116.22 euros, including taxes and surcharges.
Find out more about the island at www.visitisleofman.com
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